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About this recording

Creator
Kristin Post
Date created
October 4, 2000
Duration
0:29
Location
Trang, Thailand
File
MP3
License
This recording copyright ©2000. Terms of use

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Part of a ten day vegetarian Buddhist festival in Trang, Thailand. This is an evening fundraiser event held at the temple, and is well attended by the local townspeople.

In this clip, you can hear the sound of firecrackers exploding, followed by recorded music. As part of the big finale, many firecrackers were detonated, but the music was the indication that the show was over, and people started to leave. See below for greater detail about the ceremony.

From my journal:

Seem to be two different events. One with Buddhist monks ends early- like the adults going to bed before the children play. Mostly women bow before monks, and they pass a strong to each other down a line and chant. I think there is also something with bamboo branches, music, and devotees, but I’m not sure what.

Crowd is huge, surrounding a rectangle about 40 ft. by 50 ft. Ladder goes up approximately one story. Painted red. Triangular flags with red fringe- either white, green or yellow flags. Table with thorns set up to one side. What I don’t know until later is that the steps of the ladder are metal blades with salt on them, which explains the deliberate way people move up them. And there are two ropes coming from the top- these are pulled taut by a group of men, and used for descent sometimes. At the top are two big lanterns and more flags. Coming from the sides are more ropes with lanterns.

Before the show, just a few men sit to the side. One periodically douses flam in front of ladder, making lots of smoke. They also add incense to the red, ten foot high altar in front of the ladder, where fruit, candles, et al. are. Then more men in white come in- chat and smoke. Sometimes yell directions or seem to be organizing something. Then women and girls come in- yellow boxes look like for money. Everyone wears a pink ribbon.

Crowds are packed six or so deep. Let me not forget to mention the “krup” guy who talked nonstop about food, and a certain number of baut. I was so very frustrated with him. When show finally starts, it’s with musicians coming downstairs. Then men in trance stand in a huddle over alter, seem to have incense, make some noises. Then they line up at the ladder. I am surprised to see one man, who just minutes before was laughing with his buddies and organizing things, is walking around with the apron that the folks in trance wear. Even has a whip around his neck. Turns out he didn’t go up the ladder. He walks around, speaks in a hoarse voice, and writes and holds people’s heads.

The other guys go up [the ladder with metal razor rungs] one at a time. Collect flags and stuff them in an apron. Some throw some things to the crowds. Then descend. Only four our so used ropes. Rest chose to go up and down on the blades.

I guess some folks raked themselves over thorns- tough to see. But what they do with thorns is stick yellow papers on them, and sell those and the flags and the lanterns. Lots of people liked the thorns. Women and girls collected money. Men with megaphones announced the price. Some people in trance went around with a paintbrush and talked to people- they were led by others who were scanning the crowds for the “takers.” So the real spectacle is the commercial one. After last guys group and clean everything from ladder- firecrackers go off.

Boys who held ropes play pranks on each other by tying a red cord around their shirts and watching them walk away.